Pinot Noir is the queen of grape varieties. So Andreas treats each grape as a little prince or princess.
They have now grown up into charming adult personalities inside their well-proportioned Burgundy bottles. Dressed in simple white shirts, saving all the magic for those who choose to take a closer look.
Andreas Durst makes two almost similar Pinot Noirs. The difference is the ‘S’.
S is for sulphur.
Bottling the wine with a bit of SO2 preserves the wine. For many winemakers the process is merely a safety measure. For Andreas Durst it seems more intentional. I think he wants to make a wine that’s a little more within the lines than it’s wild (unsulphured) sister. Where the fruity nuances are immediately visible and the recognizability of the Pinot Noir is high.
Sure, this choice may sometimes be at the expense of extreme levels of wildness and vibrancy, but in this case I am glad that Andreas decided to make both versions.
Pinot Noir S is indeed still a playful type. It’s pure and clean in nose and mouth, and it’s acidity-driven style highlights every curve of it’s lightly dressed body. It’s as sexy as a German queen gets and will remain so for at least half a decade more.
The smoothness of this wine! A carressing touch of dark berries on a sweet licorice backdrop.
It reminds me of southern France and its suntanned Grenache for which, I must admit, I have a soft spot. But there is something else going on. A cool metallic sense of freshness, a thermostat to tame the warmness of the fruit.
It makes sense of course, because we’re not in the Rhône Valley. We are a thousand kilometers south-west just outside Lisbon. More importantly, we’re just a few kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean and its moderating effect on the warm southern sun.
They call it CLIMA MARITIMO.
They named the wine CLIMA.
Get ready for a soft, generous kiss from Vale da Capucha.
They say that Retsina is terrible. They may be right. But they are also terribly wrong!
Let’s start by getting the facts straight.
Retsina is a (usually white) wine fermented with bits of resin from the Aleppo pine tree. A few thousand years ago the resin was used to seal the ancient wine vessels. Later on the Romans got so skilled at crafting barrels that they didn’t need the resin anymore. But it was already too late. People had gotten used to the piney flavors. And the rest is history…
So here we are in 2021.
In the company of the Georgas family and their take on this (in)famous ancient beverage. Biodynamically grown Savatiano grapes macerated for five days on the skins with a teaspoon of resin. Aged in steel. Nothing added, nothing taken away.
So how does artisanal crafted orange retsina taste like?
Well… if it wasn’t for the strong aromas of pine tree, rosemary and fanzy french lavender soap you could mistake this for serious Chenin from chalky Loire. This will definitely be a one-of-kind experience for many of you. I know it is for me. And I absolutely adore this wild wild beast of a wine.